Day Five: Worship in the Holy Land

Posted by Abbott Bailey

This morning many of us worshiped with the Arabic congregation at St. George’s Cathedral. Much, of course, was in arabic and therefore would have been completely incomprehensible were it not for the fact that we were worshiping together as Anglicans — we understand each other’s prayer language.  At times, I would close my eyes and listen as the two languages, arabic and english, wove in and out , neither silencing or outdoing the other.

The gospel reading was from Matthew – the story of the Canaanite woman (‘Yes, Lord, yet even the dogs eat the crumbs that fall from their masters’ table.’)  I couldn’t help but wonder how the Palestinian Christians hear this story.  Do they ever feel like they are receiving the scraps from the table of the Holy Land?  The preacher, as others have, suggested that she “reminded” Jesus that he is the Lord of ALL people, and not just a few.  He also suggested that we reach for more faith than the faith of the Canaanite woman (who, I would suggest, stood up to Jesus to get her just mercy).  Is that what it takes to survive here?  Or maybe the simple fact of living here day in and day out with faith suggests something more profound than many of us can imagine who have so little need to stand up for anything since it is all handed to us on a silver platter.

As it stands, the Christian population is rapidly dwindling in the Holy Land.  Yesterday, when we visited Bethlehem, we learned that in recent years the Christian population, which was a majority, is now around 25% of the population.  In all the Holy Land, Christians now account for less than 2% of the population.  We’ve been told that Christians have more family connections outside of Israel and Palestine, which makes it easier for them to leave.  Given the hardships of living here as palestinians, they chose to make another home.

I am reminded of Dr. Yarden’s reflection on the difference between Christian and Jewish understandings of the Holy Land.  He said that for Jews the Holy Land is a tapestry in which every thread is Holy moving out in concentric circles of holiness from the Temple Mount.  For Christians, he said, the Holy Land consists of a series of holy places, like knots, in between which there is nothing sacred so to speak.  I understood the analogy, but wasn’t sure I’d push it quite that far in terms of the Christian view of the Holy Land.  I understand that we, as a people, were never a nation in the sense that the Jewish people understand themselves to be a nation here, and yet I imagine that the ties to the land are still quite strong for a Palestinian Christian whose family has been living here for generations.  I wonder what analogy a Palestinian Christian might make of the relationship between the people and the land in terms of their faith?

Day Four: Two Kingdoms

Posted by Abbott Bailey

The Herodian

We started out the day at the Herodian, a fortress built by Herod the Great on the site of one of his victories over his Hasmonian enemies.  Built sometime in the early twenties BCE, the fortress offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside to the Dead Sea, which we could still see despite the rain, clouds and high winds at the time of our visit.  From the Upper Herodian, we descended deep in to the hill to the cisterns and tunnels which served the Jewish revolts against the Romans in both 66 CE and 132 CE.  Andrew, our course director, reflected on the two kingdoms that we confront in Herod and through the birth of Jesus: 1) The kingdom of the world, and 2) the kingdom of God.  He asked us to contemplate how these kingdoms are still present today.

Shepherd’s Field

From the Herodian, we travelled to Shepherd’s Field, the traditional location where the angels announced Jesus’ birth to the shepherds.  Gathered in a cave, we celebrated Eucharist with Bishop Shannon presiding. In his homily, Bishop Shannon held up to us the tension of the seasons of Lent and the Nativity.  One is a season of purging; the other a season of birth.  To me, it seamed appropriate that, here in this place, the season of the nativity would break in to the season of Lent much like God broke into the world through the birth of Christ, out of season in so many respects.  I remembered the psalm from day one “This one was born here,” and my expectation that something of us would be born here.  If my memory serves, Bishop Shannon expected that this tension between Lent and Nativity, purging and birth, might fashion devotion out of discipline.  From discipline to devotion.  For me, it struck at the very heart of why we do what we do during Lent.

Bethlehem and the Church of the Nativity

Not thinking about it this way as we did it, I realize in the writing that we left Shepherds Field for Bethlehem and the Church of the Nativity, the traditional site of the cave of Jesus’ birth, like shepherds traveling from the fields to the city.  As I entered the church, I thought about the Christmas Eve homily I offered this past year:

“I have to admit that I am not typically taken by Holy Sites, and this day was no different.  There were people everywhere, though it wasn’t even as crowded as it typically is.  We stood in this long line to make our way down to a cave under the altar and literally filed past the spot believed to be the birthplace of Jesus.  I remember thinking, “This is it?”  It looked to me like a little hole in the ground that had now been ornately decorated with a silver star and continuously burning lights.  I don’t know what I was expecting, but as I passed the cave, there was no stir in my heart, no thrill of the moment, and certainly no intensified feeling of God’s presence.  I didn’t feel like a pilgrim traveling to revere the birthplace of my Lord.  I just felt like another tourist.”

I expected more of the same this time, but something different occurred.  While waiting in line, we heard a commotion and then were asked to make way for a procession that, we immediately learned by the site of the coffin being brought in, marked the start of a funeral liturgy.  While we waited to process past a “hole in the ground,” these people waited on God in the hope of the resurrection.  As one of the oldest continuously operating Christian churches in the world, the Church of the Nativity is not just the site of a “hole in the ground,” but the site of the living Gospel, where birth and death and everything in between continues to be placed in the context of our redemption.  This time, when filing past the “hole” and mindful of the call to devotion, I got down on my knees and kissed the ground, like many of my fellow pilgrims. Was I any more moved this time?  I don’t know, but I felt compelled to make more of this place than a couple of good photos.

Day Two: On the Ground in the Old City

On day one, we saw Jerusalem from “above” — from the rooftop of Beit Abraham.  On day two, we began to see the Old City of Jerusalem from the “ground.”  Our assignment was to try to put our finger on the pulse of one of the four quarters of the Old City to discern its distinguishing characteristics and to listen and look for the joys, sorrows and symbols of the people there.

Fran Gardner shared about her day in the Old City yesterday on her blog, whitemountainmusings.  Check it out.

Meanwhile, the explorations of Bev Hunter and her “family” are posted on Bev’s blog, with pictures from Diane below.

Pilgrims bring children’s books for St. George’s School

Posted by Abbott Bailey

A number of pilgrims from the Diocese of Virginia brought something more in their luggage than just the necessities of two week’s travel in the Holy Land.  Along with clothes and comfortable shoes, they brought children’s books.  David Smith, a missioner with the American Friends of the Diocese of Jerusalem, encouraged us to bring our favorite children’s books for the students at St. George’s School, where the students begin learning English by first grade.  These books are an expensive commodity here, and they are a tremendous help for their English language program.  The following is a letter from the Reverend Canon Robert Edmonds, Chaplain to the Anglican Bishop in Jerusalem in response to this gift to the School.

Dear Members of the Jerusalem Mile Project Pilgrimage Group,

On behalf of Bishop Suheil Dawani, Bishop of the Episcopal Diocese of Jerusalem and the children served by the schools of this Diocese, allow me to offer our sincere appreciation and thanks for the outpouring of support through the suitcase and a half of books for children that were delivered to my office by the Reverend David Smith.  These are exactly the kinds of books which are of tremendous value to our students and their teachers.

Books are very expensive here which makes this contribution a huge boost to our efforts at teaching English.  Here at St. George’s School in Jerusalem, English instruction begins in the first grade which provides the foundation the children need for expanding their horizons. Thanks to this emphasis on language education, many of our high school students are virtually fluent in English upon graduation.  This language skill provides opportunities for each student beyond high school, whether for advanced studies in college or gaining employment right after graduation.  Either way, your help is providing an opportunity which changes lives here for the better and we are grateful.

Thank you for your interest, your commitment and your generosity,

Faithfully,

The Reverend Canon Robert D. Edmonds

The Peace Process: An Israeli Perspective

Posted by Abbott Bailey

At the conclusion of a long and rich first day, Dr. Ophir Yarden (professor of Jewish and Israel studies at Brigham Young University’s Jerusalem center) easily captivated us for nearly two hours with his take on Israeli-Jewish perspectives of the peace process.  After starting out by saying, “There currently really isn’t much of a peace process,” Dr. Yarden walked us through various options (two state, one state, continued occupation) and the opinions and concerns surrounding each.  He addressed Israeli concerns about the viability of a reliable Palestinian peace partner given the “footage” of the last 40-60 years (first and second intifadas, attacks from Hezbollah, bombing during the Iraq war, and the current Iranian ruler who calls for the annihilation of the state of Israel).  He concluded, however, with words of hope in the possibility of a viable peaceful resolution to the conflict, which, in his opinion, involves a two-state solution.  Despite evidence to the contrary, he can imagine support for a two-state solution “coming out of the woodwork” from the general Israeli-Jewish population.

When asked about the role American Christians can play in supporting the peace process, Dr. Yarden emphatically and enthusiastically encouraged us to support the local Christian community.  He lamented that the Christian community is at risk of disappearing, saying unequivocally, “There should be Christians in the Holy Land.”  He also encouraged us not to become a vector for the conflict by exporting a position that requires standing on one “side” or another, but to support the local Christian community as a means of promoting peace.  This role — to support the local Christian community in the Holy Land — is essentially the mission of the Jerusalem Mile Project (see About the Project for more information).

On March 4, we’ll hear from Dr. Ali Qleibo on the peace process from the Palestinian Perspective.

Day One in Photos

Pilgrimage – Day One: Jerusalem the Golden

Posted by Abbott Bailey

One of my roles at St. Andrew’s Church in Richmond is as the chaplain for the elementary school associated with the church.  During our last chapel together before leaving for Jerusalem, one of the children, a first grader, asked me to please take a picture with Jesus to share with them when I get back.  I don’t remember exactly what I said in reply after chuckling in delight, but I remember thinking that his request betrayed a beautifully simple sense of the incarnation that I’d be well served to adopt while I’m here as we literally wander in the footsteps of Christ.

We have now arrived at St. George’s College — 28 of us from the Diocese of Virginia and another 10 or so from places as far away as New Zealand.  Last night, a few hours after arrival, still bleary from our long travels to get here, Andrew, our course director, reminded us that St. Jerome called Holy Land the land of the “fifth gospel.”  I wonder if my first grader and St. Jerome weren’t somehow speaking the same language.

Each one of us on this Pilgrimage has come with hopes and expectations, and now we are entering into the hopes and expectations of all the people who call this place “home” with everything that means to them. Here’s some of what we hope for the next few weeks:

“I am so mindful, and I begin this journey in Lent, of the words from the Gospel of Luke, ‘he set his face toward Jerusalem.'”

“I’m curious to explore the idea of sacred space in this place that is considered by many to be one of the most sacred spaces in the world.”

“I’m here to deepen my solidarity with the church in Jerusalem.”

“How as an American can I have anything to do with peace and justice in the middle east?  That is my question for this trip.”

“I have been told — and I feel this — that ‘something will happen’ while I am here.”

“Is ‘he’ really here any more than he is in my house?  I’m here to find out.”

“I’ve been reading the gospel stories since I can remember, and now I get to be in and actually see what I’ve been imagining my whole life.”

The psalmist wrote, “And of Zion it shall be said, ‘This one and that one were born in it’; for the Most High himself will establish it.  The Lord records, as he registers the peoples, ‘This one was born here.’  Singers and dancers alike say, ‘All my springs are in you.'”

I imagine for each of us that something of us will be born here.